Hints
& Tips
Most of these I've Learned over
the years,
but a few I've Developed on my
own.
.
Some of
these tips may not be new to you, but
I'm sure
someone somewhere may need them.
.
When beginning a project that requires working into a starting chain, first
work your chain loosely, OR use a hook one size larger than needed,
then change to the needed size and start your first row. Work your
stitches into the "back ridge" of the chain (see illustration below).
This gives a firmer edge for your border stitches and a more finished look
if you won't be adding a border. Using this technique will cause
the chain to tighten slightly, so be sure you make your chain loose enough
to compensate for this. With a little practice, you can get the hang
of it rather quickly.
.
I like to start new rows and rounds with a sc instead of a slip-stitch
then chaining. (Mainly when changing colors) For example -
if the first stitch of the row or round is a sc, then I just join with
a sc. To do this, place your slip-knot (your beginning loop) on the
hook and then join into the stitch like you normally would for a stitch
and finish it as a sc. If you need a taller stitch (hdc, dc or trc),
then just join with a sc and ch 1, 2 or 3 to equal the height of the needed
st. The joining sc counts as the first ch and the result looks more
like a real st than just the ch.
Whenever possible, (when changing colors) work stitches over the tail ends
of the previous color. This will prevent the need for weaving them
in later and can save you a lot of time. I prefer to change colors
or add a new skein or ball at the end of a row or rnd, but sometimes it's
not possible. If you Must do this in the middle of a row or round,
Do Not Knot the ends together! Instead, work over the end of the
new yarn for a few stitches, work next st until 2 loops remain on hook,
drop the old yarn, complete the st and continue with the new strand, working
the next few stitches over the end of the old yarn. Work a row (or
rnd) or two then secure both ends with glue (see next hint) and continue
working the item. If you feel you MUST tie a knot, then use the "square
knot" method (right over left, left over right) instead of an overhand
knot. The square knot is smaller and flatter and can be hidden much
more easily than an overhand knot.
To keep ends from coming undone, leave at least an inch of the end after
weaving in or working over it and use a washable fabric glue (like that
used for gluing faceted jewels to cloth) to secure them. Be sure
to only use a small amount (one drop is usually plenty) and place it under
(or inside) a stitch where it won't be seen, leaving the loose end
free. Allow enough time for glue to dry (30 to 45 minutes should
be plenty, and placing it where a fan can blow on it will reduce the needed
drying time), then snip loose end close to stitch. Those ends won't
ever come loose again! Jewel Glue by Delta, Aleene's Jewel-It
and Aleene's OK-to-Wash-It work very well for this as they dry clear
and flexible and can be washed many, many times without ever letting go.
.
Panda
Crochet! visitor Bobbie V. gives this tip:
.
"Although it's just fine to crochet over the tail after adding a new color
or another ball of thread, to weave properly so it won't come out, you
should crochet over 3-4 stitches, then weave the rest of tail in the Opposite
direction in different stitches than first crocheted over. If there's
still tail left after using 3-4 stitches in the opposite direction, then
head back in the original direction, again using different stitches.
It won't ever pull out, honest!!! I have doilies made by my Grandmother
using this method and you can't even find her ending or beginning stitches
on them."
.
Thanks
Bobbie! :o)
Working in rounds - especially on round items. I don't know if anyone
else has ever had this problem, but I used to always get confused at the
end of working a round and thought I had too many stitches. It turns
out that I had worked the round correctly, however the "leftover" st at
the end of the round was my joining sl st and by skipping over it I left
a hole or "seam". To fix this problem (it also helps to hide that
annoying "seam"), I simply started tightening that sl st slightly after
I joined. Make the sl st as you normally would, then tug on it lightly
(not too tight), and continue on to the next round, if there is one.
That "seam" isn't as visible and your round items will look more finished
and professional.
Squares - Particularly Granny Squares and others that are done with different
colored rounds. When you change colors for each color round, start
the new color in a different corner than the last color. Again, this
avoids that "seam" and gives a more professional appearance.
Working borders. Whenever you are working a border that tells you
to work into the ends of the rows, work your stitches into the sides
of the stitches at the row ends, not around them. Working
around these stitches will create holes, while working into the sides of
the stitches won't - and it also makes a neater edge.
Washing and Blocking doilies is an absolute necessity, in my humble opinion.
Here's how I accomplish this. Fill a medium sized mixing bowl with
warm water and a few drops of dish detergent (enough to make a good lather).
For a White doily, a few drops of chlorine bleach can be added if needed.
Immerse the doily in the warm, soapy water and gently squeeze lather through,
being careful not to wring it tightly. You can let it soak for a
while if you wish. Remove doily from bowl and rinse under warm running
water until all detergent is gone. (To help tighten the stitches,
after all lather is rinsed out, run doily under Cold water!) Squeeze
out excess water GENTLY! Lay doily flat on end of thick bath towel
and fold other end of towel over it, then roll up towel and doily, squeezing
Gently as you go. Repeat last step if necessary. Unroll and
place doily on fresh, dry towel and smooth doily from center outward using
palms of your hands, then pin to shape as needed or desired, using rust-proof
pins. If pinning isn't needed, allow to dry for about 30 - 45 minutes,
then smooth the doily again as before. Let doily dry completely,
usually overnight is sufficient. If placed where it will get a Light
breeze from a fan, drying time will be greatly reduced. Starching
or stiffening is mainly a matter of personal preference - I prefer not
to do this, but that's just me! :o)
.
If you
have a Hint or Tip you would like to
share,
E-mail
it to me and I'll add it to this page!
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